EXCLUSIVE: A Seat at the Table with Chef Ryan DePersio — Ember & Eagle and the Road to ‘Barchino’

Photo of Chef Ryan Depersio by the NJ Pizza Alliance

A Friday at Ember & Eagle

Ember & Eagle in Eatontown, New Jersey, comes alive on Friday afternoons, especially during its weekly pizza special, a newer addition that has quickly gained traction with both regulars and first-time guests. I visited just after noon, at the height of the lunch rush, when the restaurant was full of energy and movement.

The wrap-around bar was active, with guests settled in and service flowing smoothly. High-top tables along the windows offered a clear view of the golf course, adding to the overall atmosphere. While the space initially felt dark upon entering, the details began to reveal themselves as I walked further in. The lighting, the chandeliers, and the uniformed staff created a polished setting, while trays of food moving steadily out of the kitchen added a sense of pace and purpose. One dish in particular, a burger passing by on its way to a table, stood out immediately.

I was seated at a high top next to the window viewing the outdoor patio, where service was attentive from the start. A glass and a bottle of sparkling water were brought over in a bucket of ice, and the staff made the experience feel comfortable and welcoming throughout.

The visit itself was arranged directly with Chef Ryan DePersio, who had invited me in for an exclusive first look at his latest pizza creations. What followed was more than a meal. Chef DePersio personally walked me through the space, offering a full tour of Ember & Eagle. From the kitchen to the upstairs dining area and ballroom overlooking The Tilling House golf course, the experience provided a deeper understanding of both the restaurant and the team behind it.

This meetup also included the opportunity to try two of his newest pizzas, currently featured as part of the Friday lunch program. These pies serve as an early preview of what is to come with his upcoming concept, Barchino, set to launch this fall. It was a rare look at a chef in the process of developing something new, with clear intention behind every detail.

Inside Ember & Eagle

This restaurant carries an upscale and elegant presence from the moment you settle in. The space leans into a darker, more refined atmosphere that immediately signals a higher level of intention, both in service and in the food being prepared behind the scenes.

What sets it apart from many restaurants in New Jersey is not just the design, but the feeling that every detail is deliberate. During a tour of the kitchen, that impression became even more apparent. The operation is expansive and highly organized, far exceeding what you might expect walking in. Fresh pasta is made to order, ingredients are locally sourced, and the level of execution is treated with seriousness. It becomes clear quickly that this is a team operating at a high level, with the infrastructure to support it.

The dining room reinforces that standard. Small touches stand out. A chilled bottle of water presented in an ice bucket, comfortable leather seating at the high top tables & bar, and a layout that feels both comfortable and composed. These details elevate the experience without making it feel inaccessible.

The view outside adds another layer. The golf course stretches across the property, offering a wide and open backdrop that contrasts with the darker interior. Just beyond the windows sits a patio space, which, as described by Chef Ryan DePersio, becomes a setting for weddings and events during the warmer months. While I have not yet experienced it in that setting, the scale and openness of the landscape suggest a completely different dimension to the restaurant when the seasons change.

Despite its elevated feel, Ember & Eagle does not come across as a place reserved only for special occasions. There is a steady flow of guests who appear comfortable and familiar with the space, whether stopping in for a drink at the bar or meeting for lunch. The environment strikes a balance between refinement and approachability.

Even the music contributes to that balance. The sound selection leaned into softer, more refined tones, with elements of piano and live-style instrumentation that matched the room. It was not background noise. It helped shape the experience, adding a sense of warmth that made the space feel both polished and inviting.

In the Presence of Chef Ryan DePersio

Meeting Chef Ryan DePersio adds another dimension to the experience at Ember & Eagle. He carries himself with a quiet confidence that reflects both experience and control. It is not performative. It comes through in how he moves, how he speaks, and how he engages with the people around him.

From the start, he was welcoming and attentive. Throughout the visit, he made a point to ensure I was comfortable, especially as we moved through darker areas of the restaurant. He was patient, thoughtful, and present in a way that felt genuine. At one point, he stepped away from the pace of the kitchen to sit and share a few slices of pizza, asking for feedback and engaging in conversation. It was a simple moment, but one that reflected his openness to dialogue and his interest in how his food is received.

During the tour, he introduced me to members of his team across all roles, from servers to managers to cooks. Each interaction felt intentional. There was a clear sense of respect and familiarity between him and his staff, and in return, the team carried themselves with focus and purpose. In the kitchen, that dynamic becomes even more apparent. The operation runs with discipline, and the cooks work with a level of seriousness that reflects strong leadership. Chef DePersio is not removed from the process. He is actively involved, mentoring younger chefs and maintaining a presence in the execution of the food.

When he speaks about food, the conversation leans technical and precise. There is a clear emphasis on sourcing, quality, and process. Ingredients are fresh, locally sourced where possible, and treated with care. He is not chasing trends or shortcuts. Instead, he is applying a skillset built over years in the industry and adapting it to new formats, including pizza. His approach is deliberate, shaped by both his own experience and the relationships he has built within the broader food community.

One of the more unexpected aspects of the visit was seeing how the pizzas were prepared. Rather than a traditional deck or wood-fired oven, the pizzas are currently being cooked in a commercial convection oven fitted with a pizza stone. It is an unconventional setup for this type of product, and yet the results speak to the level of control and understanding behind the process. It also raises a natural question about how these pizzas will evolve when transitioned into a dedicated pizza environment.

Despite his reputation and success, what stands out most is his demeanor. He is approachable, grounded, and generous with his time. There is no sense of distance between him and the people around him, whether staff or guests. That balance of technical ability and personal awareness defines his presence.

If there is a single way to describe Chef Ryan DePersio, it is this. He is an energetic operator who executes with precision, holds a high standard, and does not compromise on the details.

An Elevated Approach to Pizza

The pizzas were served as 12-inch rounds, cut into eight slices, and presented simply, allowing the product to speak for itself. At first glance, they carry the visual identity of a brick oven pizza. The crust rises with a light, airy structure, the edges crisped and slightly blistered, and the mozzarella finished with a light char. Sitting in the dining room, it would be easy to assume these were coming out of a traditional pizza oven. The reality is quite different.

These pies are currently being produced in a commercial convection oven fitted with a pizza stone, a detail that makes the execution especially notable.

The Margherita pizza sets the foundation. Built with Bianco tomatoes, Grande low moisture mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, parmigiano, and micro basil, it leans into restraint and balance. The tomatoes present clean and fresh, with a brightness that feels closer to freshly jarred than heavily cooked. The cheese is melted with precision and evenly distributed without excess. The ratio is controlled, with a lighter hand on the sauce that allows each component to remain distinct. A pecorino blend layered into the finish adds depth without overwhelming the structure. The result is a pizza that feels light, composed, and easy to return to.

The Cappicola pizza moves in a different direction while maintaining that same level of control. Thin slices of cappicola lead the profile, delivering a salty and savory base throughout. Broccoli rabe is handled with care, offering balance without aggressive bitterness. Pickled Jimmy Nardello peppers introduce a subtle sweetness and acidity that cuts through the richness, while a finish of Calabrian chili oil adds a mild heat that builds gently. Each element is intentional, and nothing dominates the bite.

What defines these pizzas is not adherence to a specific style, but the absence of one. They are not traditional brick oven pizzas, and while they share characteristics with Neapolitan, they do not fully align with that category. Instead, they exist as a product of the environment in which they are created.

This is a chef-driven approach to pizza, shaped by technique, ingredient awareness, and control rather than tradition alone.

If this level of execution is being achieved within the constraints of a convection oven, it raises a natural question about what is possible in a fully dedicated pizza setting.

Looking Ahead: The Vision for Barchino

The pizzas served at Ember & Eagle are not an isolated experiment. They are part of a larger vision taking shape with Chef Ryan DePersio’s upcoming concept, Barchino.

During the visit, Chef DePersio shared an early look at the project, including a virtual model of the space. Barchino will be located in Jersey City, positioned along the water just behind Batello, with direct views of the New York City skyline. The setting introduces a different level of experience for a pizza-focused concept.

The space is designed to feel modern and refined, with lighting arranged in a way that enhances both the room and the atmosphere. At its core, Barchino is an elevated pizzeria and restaurant built on the same principles of execution and ingredient quality seen at Ember & Eagle.

Chef DePersio has committed to a Marra Forni gas oven for primary production, along with an electric oven to support volume. The focus is not simply on producing pizza, but on maintaining consistency and control at scale.

The pizzas served during the Friday lunch program will carry over to Barchino, forming part of the foundation of the menu. Beyond that, Chef DePersio continues to develop additional offerings, with an emphasis on creating something distinct rather than replicating familiar options.

One of the more unique elements of the concept is its potential as a destination beyond standard dining. With its waterfront location and design, Barchino is being considered as a venue for smaller weddings and special events. In a market where smaller, high-quality venues are limited, particularly for groups in the range of seventy to eighty guests, the concept fills a noticeable gap.

Barchino represents a natural extension of Chef DePersio’s work. It builds on the foundation established at Ember & Eagle while allowing for a more focused expression of his approach to pizza.

Beyond the Slice: A Shift in Perspective

Experiences like this reshape how pizza is understood. What stood out most at Ember & Eagle was not just the execution, but the reminder of where pizza begins. At its core, pizza has always been an evolving craft, shaped by experimentation, adaptation, and repetition.

Seeing a chef of Chef DePersio’s caliber step into that process brings a different level of attention. This is someone applying years of culinary discipline to a format that continues to evolve. If this is the starting point, the potential for what follows is significant.

For New Jersey, this moment adds to a broader story. The state’s pizza culture is not confined to one style or region. It is diverse, competitive, and constantly growing. The addition of a concept like Barchino reinforces that reputation and contributes to its progression.

Looking ahead, Barchino carries real anticipation. Its location, combined with a focused and elevated approach, positions it to stand out within an already strong dining landscape. Beyond the food, it introduces new possibilities for how people gather and celebrate.

For those following New Jersey pizza, Barchino is worth paying attention to. If the early stages at Ember & Eagle are any indication, it represents more than a new opening. It is part of a larger progression that continues to define what pizza can be.

And as for Ember & Eagle, it is a place worth returning to.